Saturday, April 19, 2008

Abu Dhabi Dubai Abu Dubi Dubi Dai Said The Emir To The Sheikh

I finished my blog, walked all the way back to the hostel and my room and ...realized that I had left my backpack with all the money and documents, etc., at the internet place. I hobbled as quickly as possible back over there and, once again, God and human nature were kind to me and the bag was returned.

The next morning I went back to the airport and negotiated a rental car for $33 a day. Gas is $1.70, the menu at Chili's charges the same prices as the U.S., everything here except the hotels is pretty reasonable. Dubai is a great place to live; you just wouldn't want to visit.

And today a sandstorm had blown in from Kuwait, so that after a couple of hundred yards visibility got really vague. With very few mistakes I found my way onto the twelve lane freeway west, and found myself driving along an 'avenue' of collosal buildings being built on either side of said freeway. And off to the side, misty in the sandfog, was the new World's Tallest Building, the Bur Dubai. It looked like the Empire State Building squeezed through a tube, and is so skinny that it must fall over.

A few miles later I turned right and headed for the 'beach' a couple of miles north. The water is beautiful aquamarine, but the sand is just a continuation of the rest of the country. And soon there was a quick misty view of the Burj Dubai, which is the famous hotel built like a sailboat with $7000 a night rooms. I didn't stop to go in for a look since that cost $200.

Then it was back to the freeway interchange and the Mall of the Emirates, the one that's famous for the indoor ski slope. I parked in the purple zone, went in, and dutifully gawked at everyone schussing and tobaggoning away. $80 for a daypass if you're interested.

Then I turned and checked out the mall a little. Forget the U.N. of yesterday: here 90% were Westerners, 8% UAE, and 2% 'other'. And this was about as upscale as any U.S. mall ever gets. Still, Starbuck's prices were about the same.

I got back on the freeway (which is quite a difficult thing to do in Dubai, what with all the roundabouts, turnarounds, exit ramps, frontage roads, etc.) and started the 130 mile run to Abu Dhabi. First there were about 10 miles of half completed high rise apartments and offices, then new industrial parks, with giant warehouses and factories a-buildin'.

Why is this all happening? The only explanation is that it was built and they came. After all, Dubai has no oil, and I have no idea what widgets will be built or where they will be distributed to. This is the middle of nowhere.

And what in the world brings all the westerners? After all, many of them are rich people who are just moving here to be here, and what will they do besides mall ski?

Oh well, that's their problem. Mine was getting to Abu Dhabi. The freeway narrowed to eight lanes and I cruised along at 75, while everyone else was doing at least 100. And after an hour or so of driving through the grass studded dirty sand I started entering the outskirts of the city. About 10 or 15 miles in, having passed the World's Most Collosal Mosque on the left, I got to downtown Abu Dhabi.

Which is clean, well to do, new and sparkling, and somnolent. The buildings are snazzy and all, but are all exactly eighteen stories high. I made it to the 'corniche', the freeway along the 'waterfront', parked, and walked around a grassy area for a while. There's absolutely nothing to do in Abu Dhabi, so I headed back up the peninsula that the city is built on, and back to the sand and the interior.

Since hotels are about $500 a night in Abu Dhabi, my plan was to head inland 100 miles to the town of Al Ain. Well, not Al Ain iself, but the tiny enclave of Oman called Bumeiri that is right next to Al Ain., and where supposedly hotels were a lot cheaper.

I got to Al Ain without a problem, but it turned out that Al Ain was a LOT bigger than I had foreseen. And when I finally got to the 'town centre' there were no signs pointing to where Bumeiri might be. Even though the Lonely Planet map made it look like it was right there.

Stop and ask people. Virtually no one speaks English. Start getting vague directions. Turn, get to the roundabout, go left to the next roundabout, turn right to the light...

I spent about an hour and a half trying to find the damn Bureimi. Finally the sun was down, I kept coming back to the same roundabouts, and I was starting to do stark raving mad with frustration. Part of me was convinced that all the Arabs were laughing at me, that there was no Bureimi, or that there was and they were deliberately lying to me, or that they were so stupid that it existed but no one really knew how to get there.

Finally, on my last attempt I took a left at the roundabout, took a right at the next roundabout, drove down about four miles, did a u-turn, drove back about four miles to the same roundabout, and ...there it was, to the right!

I drove about 100 yards to the 'police post', which wasn't manned, and I was in Bureimi, in the country of Oman. Now around these parts Oman is like Mexico is to the U.S., and I entered a world of cheaper buildings and Arab men in their white robes hanging out in the evening. The good hotel listed in the book was all full up, but the crappy one had plenty of rooms. I was now able to get a fleabag room with a horribly hard bed for just $33 a night.

I took it.

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